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Color Performance and Cost-effectiveness Evaluation of Acid and Basic Dyed Silk Fabric

Shakil Mahmud
Sublime Greentex Limited, Sreepur, Gazipur-1740, Bangladesh

S. M. Rashadur Rahaman Setu
LI & FUNG, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh

Md. Ariful Islam
Pepkore Global Sourcing, Gulshan-2, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh

Nazmun
Albion clothing Ltd., Christchurch-8011, New Zealand

Abstract/ Executive Summary:

Silk, the natural protein fiber has a great importance in textile clothing, apparel and home decoration due to its definite lustrous appearance, peach like softness and draping qualities. Fine fibrillar structure and orientation of fiber molecules control its dyeing nature covering almost the entire spectrum of colors and hues. Silk is mainly used for value added premium quality products, so this research work is carried out to find out the economical dyestuff for silk along with required end customer performance. Shade strength measurement using data color is also another technical aspect of this research.

Keywords: Silk dyeing, Color performance, Costing, Economical

Location: Sopura silk mills Ltd., Dhanmondi, Bangladesh

Start Date:

End Date:

Program Area: Farm Mechanization

Non-commodity: Price behavior, Livelihood

Objectives:

To find out the economical dyestuff for silk along with required end customer performance.

Methodology:

Substrate: The raw silk fabric, that is collected from the Sopura silk mills Ltd., Dhanmondi. The fabric is plain woven with the weight of 60 GSM. Degumming of silk: Degumming of silk with synthetic detergents (Non-ionic product) is carried out as pretreatment of silk. The bath was set with substrate at room temperature and KS-10 (wetting agent), SQ-117CA (Sequestering agent) and detergent was added to it. Then temperature was raised at 2°C /min to 80°C and then pH was maintained to 11.5 by adding soda ash. After that, temperature was raised to 95°C and ran for 40 minutes for optimum removal of sericin gum. The bath was cooled down to 60°C and then the bath was dropped. At last, it was washed with warm and cold water successively. Silk dyeing with acid dyes and basic dyes: In this experiment, total 15 samples were dyed in red, blue and yellow color by acid and basic dyes respectively. For each color, we dyed sample in 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3% and 5% shade range. For dyeing with acid dyes, Albagal SET (Leveling agent) was taken into the dye pots and dye solution for shade 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% respectively were added into the dye pots. Then, Albatex AB 45 (buffer solution) was added to maintain pH 4.5 and subsequently silk fabric were taken into the pots. Dye bath was prepared to 50⁰ C temperature and ran the bath for 10 minute at 50⁰C. Temperature was raised to 98⁰ C at 10 C/ min rate and Dye bath was run for 60 min. Finally, bath was dropped to 60°C at 1.5^oC /min rate [2]. For dyeing with basic dyes, dyeing process is similar except adding Glauber salt with Ablagal SET and dye solution in dye pot. In this process, bath was prepared to 40⁰C for 10 min. Temperature was then raised to 80⁰ C at 1.5⁰ C/ min rate. Dye bath was run for 40 min and finally dropped to 60°C at 1.5^oC /min rate. Acid and basic silk samples were rinsed with cold water, washed at 80°C for 5 min with soaping agent Eriopon OS 1.0 g/l and then these were rinsed again in cold water. Fixing was done only on acid dyed samples with Erional FRN 3.0% at pH 4.5 (with Albatex AB 45) at 80°C for 30 minutes. Then they were rinsed again with cold water. At last the samples were dried in dryer.

Source of Information: American Scientific Research Journal for Engineering, Technology, and Sciences (ASRJETS), ISSN (Print) 2313-4410, ISSN (Online) 2313-4402

Article Link (Online Journal):

Funding Source:

Budget:

Total Budget (Tk.) :

Achievement/Findings:

This research work is done to find out suitable cost effective dyes for dyeing silk between acid dyes and basic dyes. This study suggests that silk dyeing with acid dyes is more suitable from the point of view of color performance properties as the data shows good result. On the other hand, basic dyes are suitable from economical point of view. The fastness properties of basic dyes can be increased by mordanting in further research.

Knowledge Management: Journal