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Samina Afrin
School of Business, East Delta University, Chittagong, Bangladesh

There is a growing concern that labour rights are often violated in Bangladeshi RMG industry. This study seeks to analyze the labour condition for workers in the apparel industry of Bangladesh by providing an analysis of the current state of labour condition in the RMG industry on the basis of nine indicators that are selected based on ILO core labour standards. The studies go through the extensive analysis of the implementation of Bangladesh Labour Law 2006 and its impact on the nine indicators. The study concludes that though some of the labour rights issues like child labour, wages and working hour have improved significantly in Bangladesh, the other issues like health and safety, discrimination, compensation and benefits need careful attention in order to sustain in a very competitive global apparel market. 

  RMG Industry, Code of Conduct, Working conditions, Supply chain
  In Bangladesh
  
  
  Risk Management in Agriculture
  Labor, Employement, Technology

The objective of this study is to provide an analysis of labour conditions for workers in the apparel industry of Bangladesh on the basis of nine indicators that are selected based on ILO core labour standards. The study examines the extent to which the implementation of Labour Law 2006 by Bangladeshi RMG firms can contribute to the improvement of labour conditions for workers in Bangladesh. 

The analytical framework of the study is qualitative which is conducted both on the basis of primary and secondary data. For the primary data, a mixed-method is used to collect the information which includes multiple case studies and semi-structured interviews. In this research work 15 non-EPZ RMG factories have been taken as data sources. A field visit is made to the above sites where labour standards initiatives are operational. From above factories, both descriptive and analytical study has been done based on narrative studies of small sample. Most of the fieldwork involved interviewing with various categories of respondents like owners, managers and workers from the participating organizations. The secondary sources which have been reviewed are: books, journals, reports, and data from various official and unofficial sources. Data from Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics (BBS), Labour Force Survey (LFS), Bangladesh Institute of Labour Studies (BILS), Department of Labour, Bangladesh Garments Manufacturing and Exporters Association (BGMEA) have been extensively used for the purpose of this study. The garment sector has been typically viewed as a major source of employment generation. (Vijayabaskar, 2002). Moreover, global trade in textiles and apparel has increased sixty-fold during the past forty years, from under $6 billion in 1962 to $353 billion in 2002. Forty years ago, the industrialized countries dominated global exports of textiles and apparel. Today, developing countries account for half of world textile exports and nearly three-quarters of world apparel exports. (Appelbaum et al. 2005). However, globalization and the dispersion of industry supply chains have provoked a fierce debate over working conditions in these emerging centres of production. Numerous reports have described exploitative working conditions in global supply chain plants. Locke et al (2007) state that workers are paid only a few dollars and required to work excessive work hours, often in poorly lit and unsafe conditions. Child labour, hazardous working conditions, excessive working hours, and poor wages continue to plague many factories in developing countries, creating scandal and embarrassment for the global companies that source from them. (Locke et al. 2007) The saturation, fragmentation, and deregulation of established markets, as well as the intensification of competitive pressure render this reputation even more important, especially for publicly visible companies. (Behnassi. 2007). Several authors have analyzed aspects of the garment industry in Bangladesh. Of the various aspects of the RMG industry, the problems and the working conditions of workers have received the greatest attention. Bhattacharya et al. (2002) analyze a wealth of data on the social and economic background, problems and prospects of workers in the Bangladeshi RMG sector where Bangladesh is an extremely poor developing country with histories of weak adherence to labour standards in industrial production and some of the lowest labour costs in the world. In Bangladesh, textile and garment workers have experienced numerous violations of worker rights supposedly guaranteed in their national labour codes, ranging from long working hours, forced and excessive overtime, illegal pay deductions, lack of safe and sanitary working conditions, and denial of the freedom to associate and bargain collectively. Rock, M. (2003), Clay, L. (2001), Chowdhury, N. (2001), Khanam, R. (2006) consider some other labour-related issues in the garment industry especially women’s right and child labour. Khondker, et al. (2005) presents a profile of the apparel sector in Bangladesh and discusses various aspects of the industry like informal recruitment, low literacy levels, wage discrimination, irregular payment and short contracts of service. Rented factory premises, narrow staircases, low roofs, closed environments, absence of lunchrooms, unavailability of clean drinking water and absence of separate toilets or common rooms for female workers are other concerns in the garment factories of Bangladesh. (Haider, 2007, Baral, 2005).  In the labour condition regime sketched above, Bangladeshi RMG exporters have been under continuous pressure for complying with international labour standards. However, the compliance standards set by the international buyers are unrealistic in the context of Bangladesh. Besides, standards used in evaluating the working conditions significantly differ from buyers to buyers complying with which is extremely difficult for Bangladeshi entrepreneurs. To overcome this problem, a number of initiatives have been launched to develop a common set of codes of conduct for the sector. (Khondker et al. 2005). The Bangladesh Labour Act, 2006 is a major and comprehensive enactment regarding labour rights partly as a response to the demand of stakeholders for improving regulatory framework on working conditions and partly by demand for the codification of existing labour laws in order to avoid overlapping and inconsistencies. (Al Faruque, 2009). This newly revised law covers a lot of the common labour standards like child labour, employment conditions, occupational health and safety issues as well as the ILO core labour standards that most of the international standards or Code of Conduct requires. This new legislation constitutes progress with regards to the previous legal framework. The scope and applicability of the law has been extended and definitions of different terms have been clarified.  

  Developing Country Studies, Vol.4, No.11, 2014, ISSN 2224-607X (Paper) ISSN 2225-0565 (Online)
  
Funding Source:
1.   Budget:  
  

From the owner, manager and worker's narratives, the study concludes that though some of the labour condition indicators such as child labour, wages and working hour have improved in Bangladesh to a large extent over the last two years, the other issues like health and safety, discrimination, compensation and benefits, freedom of association need strategic interventions by the Government, BGMEA and factory owner, in order to sustain in a very competitive global apparel market. The study figures out the improvement of labour conditions which includes eradication of child labour in export factories, increased compliance of minimum wage payment, issuing of appointment letters, formation of human resource department in the factories to take special care of labour compliance issues which was rare in the previous decades. The salient point that emerges from the discussion is that these improvements are more valid for medium or large export garment factories that have a direct relationship with their buyers and have to face regular social auditing, but not for small factories which are still working as informal section within the industry. 

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